It could be that it was more than the oboe — I’m quite willing to admit that my reeds aren’t always often stellar — but how in the world did the screw that holds the Ab key down (is that what that’s called … the thing that is on the middle joint that hangs over the small vent key right at the bottom of the top joint? It’s the screw this guy calls screw #5. *See below for another question about his page.) get turned about a half turn too tight? I do believe that was much of the issue from last night.

At least I’m hoping it was. Because that I can fix. And did.

*On Mr. Seaton’s pdf he calls what I think of as the low C key (you hit it for low C) the D key. Anyone know why this would be? I find it puzzling. Maybe it’s just mislabeled.


  1. That’s the key that is *open* to produce low D. He uses a similar naming convention for the other keys–the ones you press with your left middle and ring fingers are labeled “B natural key” and “A natural key,” not “A” and “G” like you might think. Likewise the three main RH keys are the “G natural key,” “Forked F key,” and “E natural key.” Confusing to an oboist, but makes sense to a “Master Repairman,” I suppose.

  2. Hmm. Okay. I guess I can see that reasoning. But it means that the “split D ring” on our oboes wouldn’t be on the D key, eh?

    Ah well. I’d give anything to have a master repairman here right now after a miserable night with a misbehaving oboe at opera. 🙁